Imagining the impossible: how cycling communities in Milan, Athens, and Nairobi are changing cities

Insight by Michela Grasso

In the summer of 2024, Paolo Roccatagliata, a district councilor for Fratelli d’Italia in Milan’s Municipality 2, stated, «For cyclists who end up under trucks, I don’t even feel that bad». This remark, shocking for its violence, is just one of many instances where urban cycling has been treated with contempt and arrogance by political figures in Italy. The peak was perhaps reached in September 2024 when Vittorio Feltri, a regional councilor for Fratelli d’Italia in Lombardia, declared, «I only like cyclists when they get run over». In a country dominated by cars—Italy has the highest motorization rate in Europe, with 694 cars per 1,000 inhabitants—the bicycle, in its simplicity, is a political symbol: an alternative to the status quo and car-centrism. As such, the urban cyclist represents a threat, embodying the image of a different future for our cities.

In Italy, and across the world, urban streets are battlegrounds where cyclists and pedestrians, treated as second-class citizens, fight for survival against a system that prioritizes the comfort of motorists over the safety of others. This climate of tension, along with the daily tragedies involving vulnerable road users, has led to the emergence of various protest movements globally: grassroots, horizontal, and self-organized. One of the most famous, and easiest to replicate, is Critical Mass, which has been filling the streets of hundreds of cities for over 30 years.

It all began on September 25, 1992, in San Francisco when a group of urban cyclists gathered to ride home from work together. In a space entirely dominated by cars, cycling in a group ensured both visibility and safety. Unbeknownst to them, that group of commuters had sparked a movement that would spread like wildfire throughout the world within a few years. Critical Mass is a monthly or weekly gathering of urban cyclists who, by occupying streets normally reserved for motor traffic, reaffirm their right to exist. By nature, Critical Mass is a decentralized movement; there are no leaders, only people dedicated to organization and safety management. The goal is to reclaim spaces usually denied to people and reserved for cars, proving that a different city is not only imaginable but possible.

«In recent years, Milano has seen an impressive rise in protests advocating for a better cycling network,» says Davide “Zeo” Branca, co-founder of Outdoor Manifesto and organizer of Critical Mass Milano. «These protests, including Critical Mass, don’t arise out of nowhere but from the anger toward an urban space that ignores the existence of cyclists and pedestrians, leading to daily accidents». Milan’s Critical Mass is one of the most active in Italy, meeting every Thursday at 9 PM in Mercanti Square. Dozens, sometimes hundreds, of cyclists on all kinds of bikes (worn-out ones, high-end models, cargo bikes, tricycles, unicycles, bikes with training wheels) take over the streets, moving like a flock, expanding and self-organizing. For a few moments, they create the illusion of living in an entirely different city.

«I see Critical Mass as a primordial soup for forming active citizens, a grassroots movement that fosters participation and a sense of community,» explains Zeo. «The beauty of Critical Mass is that it’s never the same people every time—it’s a dynamic group. Some come and go, some stay, some return. It brings people together, functioning as a gathering tool centered around the bicycle. It’s not just a Thursday night bike ride; it’s a political practice where the bicycle takes on many meanings, including a militant one».

The strength of Critical Mass lies in its adaptability to different contexts; every city has its own cultural, social, and physical structure, and its movements must respond to unique needs. For this reason, it is necessary to look at Critical Mass in different contexts to fully comprehend its impact and radical spirit.

Yiannos Vafidis answers the phone speaking Italian—he spent much of his life in Turin but has now returned to Athens, his hometown, where he organizes the local Critical Mass with other activists. «As a child, my grandfather taught me to ride a bike, giving way to years of adventures in the woods,» he recalls. «When my family moved to the urban center of Turin, I joined one of the city’s first community bike workshops, where we used cargo bikes to fix bicycles at universities. I’ve always been fascinated by the bicycle and its political nature, so participating in collective movements for urban cycling came naturally to me».

In Athens, a city where cycling can be risky, organizing a Critical Mass is a challenge. «Many people join our rides because it’s the only way they feel safe, protected by the group. There’s a serious lack of cycling infrastructure here, and many reluctantly use bikes out of fear of the potential risks,» says Yiannos. «During our rides (held on the last Friday of every month), we make sure to be highly visible to cars, structure the route carefully, stop at fountains, let delivery riders pass, and maintain a pace accessible to everyone. The spirit of Athenian Critical Mass is about reclaiming space and infrastructure, but also celebration. We celebrate the bicycle and its use. We can’t demand everything we need, but we can ensure that everyone gets the chance to experience Athens on two wheels, safely, while meeting other participants and volunteers. First and foremost, we aim to create a safe space».

The main goal of Athens’ Critical Mass is to shift perceptions—both among cyclists and motorists—showing that cycling is not only possible but easier than it seems. The movement has adapted to the city’s needs, prioritizing the fundamental right to move safely, even if only temporarily, while offering the possibility to experience a glimpse of a different future.

Until a few years ago, Critical Mass events were mostly found in Europe and North America. Today, they can be easily spotted in numerous Asian, South American and African capitals. Cyprine Odada, organizer of Nairobi’s Critical Mass, has managed to create an active, engaged, and inclusive movement for urban cycling in just a few years. «Why am I so passionate about cycling?», Cyprine reflects «Because it makes people happy. When you read academic studies on active mobility, they rarely mention joy or the simple pleasure of riding a bike. For me, that’s one of the most important aspects and one of the main reasons we should promote it. Cycling connects us to others, to the city, to our surroundings. It’s an antidote to the sadness and isolation of urban life».

Browsing Critical Mass Nairobi’s website reveals information on plenty of monthly events, from women-only rides to Toto Mass (children’s rides). «Urban cycling in Nairobi has skyrocketed in recent years,» Cyprine explains. «We mobilize frequently, and many other activist groups are just as committed. This allows us to address different areas of interest and promote cycling to all kinds of people». Among the most popular initiatives of Critical Mass Nairobi is the Bike Train, a series of commuter groups self-organized via whatsapp, where cyclists help each other get to work or school based on their routes. «Riding together is crucial—it helps people connect with each other and their city, » says Cyprine. «Our goal is to give people the opportunity to cycle every day, to know their neighbors, and to counter the growing individualization of urban spaces».

When Cyprine first joined Critical Mass Nairobi in 2015, the group had very few participants, and rides were often canceled due to low turnout. Over the years, she took the lead in organizing events, and today, the gatherings in Nairobi attract hundreds of cyclists. «The local government has noticed us. While we don’t collaborate directly, they recognize the value of our events and support them. Nairobi is drowning in traffic, and cars are on the rise. Offering an alternative and fostering a culture of respect for cyclists and pedestrians is crucial right now. Many young people are joining Critical Mass and have no interest in owning a car. By riding together, we hope to contribute to building a better present and future for Nairobi and Kenya».

Critical Mass is a protest phenomenon, a tool for spontaneous gathering that has helped create activist communities in every corner of the world over the years. In Italy, there are Critical Mass events in various regional and provincial capitals; to find them, just search on Google for 'Critical Mass + city name.' Riding together in a group, occupying spaces that are usually denied to cyclists, offers a completely different vision of urban space; not a city of cars, but a city of people. Experiencing firsthand a city where spaces are shared democratically and shaped around the needs of citizens and the community, is a gift one can only grant themselves by embracing the many dimensions of the bicycle: a means of transport but also a symbol of all the possible worlds that could exist.